The second part of the Scandinavia trip was the one we were most looking forward to. The trip to Bergen.We had an early morning train to Bergen. While researching for the trip, I had read that the Oslo-Bergen rail route was perhaps one of the most beautiful in the world. Naturally I was cock a hoop with excitement right from the time the train pulled out of Oslo around 6 30 am. The first hour and a half was sedate with the usual sights of pretty little villages, stre
ams and rivers running along the tracks. But soon the scenery started getting better and better as the last traces of habitation seemed to go away. From the giant windows of our train we were seeing some breathtaking views ; pristine blue water stretching for miles on end, steep gorges and valleys, fjords, green covered hills, distant snow capped mountains, an idyllic village now and then. Basically, Mother Nature in all her unspoilt glory.The sun was shining bright and the spotless blue sky only added to the beauty that we were witnessing. The train passed through bridges and tunnels and each time it crossed a tunnel, it will come out presenting a scene more beautiful than before. Our eyes were glued to the windows and our cameras were always ready to take pictures. It was as good a train ride I had ever been on a
nd all that i had read about were so true.
After 7 hours on the train, we reached the Atlantic coastal city of Bergen, the second biggest city in Norway. The main agenda in Bergen was to find a good fjord cruise tour, on which we could explore of the many celebrated fjords around Bergen. So soon we went checking for the right deal and managed to find one for the next day, which promised a cruise around the Hardaenger fjord.
We had the evening to spend, and we decided to explore the city on foot, which I belive is the best way to see a city, especially a smaller one like this. We walked to the Bryggen, a UNESCO heritage site, which is a series of buildings built close knit to each other on one side of the fjord which comes
into Bergen. We were told that the best view of Bergen and the fjord around it was from atop the hill Floyen. We preferred to walk up the hill and not to take the funicular railway. As we walked up, we realized that Bergen was not only fjord country, but also Troll country, for there were statues and images of Trolls of various sizes and shapes along the way. After an hours climb we reached the top and indeed the view from there was mind blowing. One could see the entire city, the fjords coming into from the sea , the hills all around the place and the surrounding islands. Dinner soon beckoned and we found an Indian restaurant in Bergen, run by Tamils. The people running the restaurant were more surprised in finding Indian customers, and that too a Tamil speaking one, than we in locating an Indian restaurant in far flung Bergen. This was the second instance of me running into a Sri Lankan Tamil in the least unexpected of places. The previous instance being the one where we met a Tamil family from Berlin on the beach at San Sebastian.
After 2 days o
f marvelous weather, our luck ran out the next day. We woke up to a gloomy and rainy Bergen, not the right climate for a fjord cruise. But it was not any surprise, since we were told beforehand that rain is always in the air in Bergen and that we cannot escape it. Nevertheless we boarded the bus which would take us to the departure point situated an hour away. Being the off season, the boat was sparse and the rain had sort of dampened the enthusiasm inside. We were soon cruising on the Hardaenger fjord, which we were told was one of the biggest. Thankfully soon the rain gave way to partial sunshine and we could go to the top deck and have a look. With sloping hills on either side all along the entire length of the fjord and with many smaller fjords branching out at a distance, it was indeed a sight to behold. Also one could see small villages in the distance and it was in one such village that we disembarked after cruising for a few hours. Lufthus, as the village was called, seemed an idyllic sleepy hamlet which one reads about in books. The local tourist office had already closed down since the season was over and so we were left to chalk out a plan for ourselves. And the only plan seemed to be to walk up the hills and see whatever we could. As we moved out of the main road into the dirt track, we noticed that we were in a farm – an Apple farm. And a huge one at that. We learnt soon that Lufthus was the largest apple growing centre in Norway. It was a new s
ight for us, to see apples grow on plants, yes; they were not apple trees, just plants which grow to about my height and sprouts apples all over. Lufthus was also noted for having a glacier not too far from there, and from a vantage point higher up in the hill, we could spot in the distance some snow covered peaks which we guessed might be the glacier the brochures mentioned. With rain and shine alternating, our walk was hampered now and then and we took refuge at a few places and we were expecting locals to give us the quizzical look. But it seemed to be a ghost town because apart from the few people we saw on the main road, we could not see anybody in the village or anywhere else that we walked by. The sight of three brown people walking around without any purpose in their far flung village on a rainy September day did not seem to interest of the locals at all.
This was a trip quite unlike any of the previous holidays, wherein we had been always on the move from one city to another, racing against time often and hoping to check out as many sights and sounds of the big city we were in. Paris, Rome, Madrid, Amsterdam etc. But now we were in a village in a remote part of Norway, with no agenda, nothing to do, and amidst breathtaking natural beauty. And I liked this.
ams and rivers running along the tracks. But soon the scenery started getting better and better as the last traces of habitation seemed to go away. From the giant windows of our train we were seeing some breathtaking views ; pristine blue water stretching for miles on end, steep gorges and valleys, fjords, green covered hills, distant snow capped mountains, an idyllic village now and then. Basically, Mother Nature in all her unspoilt glory.The sun was shining bright and the spotless blue sky only added to the beauty that we were witnessing. The train passed through bridges and tunnels and each time it crossed a tunnel, it will come out presenting a scene more beautiful than before. Our eyes were glued to the windows and our cameras were always ready to take pictures. It was as good a train ride I had ever been on a
nd all that i had read about were so true.After 7 hours on the train, we reached the Atlantic coastal city of Bergen, the second biggest city in Norway. The main agenda in Bergen was to find a good fjord cruise tour, on which we could explore of the many celebrated fjords around Bergen. So soon we went checking for the right deal and managed to find one for the next day, which promised a cruise around the Hardaenger fjord.
We had the evening to spend, and we decided to explore the city on foot, which I belive is the best way to see a city, especially a smaller one like this. We walked to the Bryggen, a UNESCO heritage site, which is a series of buildings built close knit to each other on one side of the fjord which comes
into Bergen. We were told that the best view of Bergen and the fjord around it was from atop the hill Floyen. We preferred to walk up the hill and not to take the funicular railway. As we walked up, we realized that Bergen was not only fjord country, but also Troll country, for there were statues and images of Trolls of various sizes and shapes along the way. After an hours climb we reached the top and indeed the view from there was mind blowing. One could see the entire city, the fjords coming into from the sea , the hills all around the place and the surrounding islands. Dinner soon beckoned and we found an Indian restaurant in Bergen, run by Tamils. The people running the restaurant were more surprised in finding Indian customers, and that too a Tamil speaking one, than we in locating an Indian restaurant in far flung Bergen. This was the second instance of me running into a Sri Lankan Tamil in the least unexpected of places. The previous instance being the one where we met a Tamil family from Berlin on the beach at San Sebastian.After 2 days o
f marvelous weather, our luck ran out the next day. We woke up to a gloomy and rainy Bergen, not the right climate for a fjord cruise. But it was not any surprise, since we were told beforehand that rain is always in the air in Bergen and that we cannot escape it. Nevertheless we boarded the bus which would take us to the departure point situated an hour away. Being the off season, the boat was sparse and the rain had sort of dampened the enthusiasm inside. We were soon cruising on the Hardaenger fjord, which we were told was one of the biggest. Thankfully soon the rain gave way to partial sunshine and we could go to the top deck and have a look. With sloping hills on either side all along the entire length of the fjord and with many smaller fjords branching out at a distance, it was indeed a sight to behold. Also one could see small villages in the distance and it was in one such village that we disembarked after cruising for a few hours. Lufthus, as the village was called, seemed an idyllic sleepy hamlet which one reads about in books. The local tourist office had already closed down since the season was over and so we were left to chalk out a plan for ourselves. And the only plan seemed to be to walk up the hills and see whatever we could. As we moved out of the main road into the dirt track, we noticed that we were in a farm – an Apple farm. And a huge one at that. We learnt soon that Lufthus was the largest apple growing centre in Norway. It was a new s
ight for us, to see apples grow on plants, yes; they were not apple trees, just plants which grow to about my height and sprouts apples all over. Lufthus was also noted for having a glacier not too far from there, and from a vantage point higher up in the hill, we could spot in the distance some snow covered peaks which we guessed might be the glacier the brochures mentioned. With rain and shine alternating, our walk was hampered now and then and we took refuge at a few places and we were expecting locals to give us the quizzical look. But it seemed to be a ghost town because apart from the few people we saw on the main road, we could not see anybody in the village or anywhere else that we walked by. The sight of three brown people walking around without any purpose in their far flung village on a rainy September day did not seem to interest of the locals at all.This was a trip quite unlike any of the previous holidays, wherein we had been always on the move from one city to another, racing against time often and hoping to check out as many sights and sounds of the big city we were in. Paris, Rome, Madrid, Amsterdam etc. But now we were in a village in a remote part of Norway, with no agenda, nothing to do, and amidst breathtaking natural beauty. And I liked this.
In a few hours, we had to catch the ferry back to Bergen. The fjord cruise was good except for the dull climate most of the day. I can only imagine how more beautiful the place would have been if there was sunshine and clear skies. Later in the night we had the night train to Oslo. We did not reserve beds and chose to sit and travel, it was considerably cheaper. And with comfortable reclining seats, blankets and the like, the night passed without much discomfort. Just like spending time on a long haul flight.
We were back in Gothenburg next day afternoon. Good old rainy damp Gothenburg. Some things never change.
We were back in Gothenburg next day afternoon. Good old rainy damp Gothenburg. Some things never change.
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